Kyoto V -- Eikando. 永觀堂

Kyoto V-- Eikando (Chinese first; then English).

Autumn in Eikando, Kyoto 京都永觀堂之秋 

(Photo credit: Let's go JP)

一個從北而來，一個由南而至，我們相遇在這客居的城市。彼時，空氣脆而微甜。一樹一樹的黃橘紅，襯得天特別藍特別亮特別高，仿佛，又特別遙不可及。風捲紅葉，遊人沐浴金雨中，盡顯明媚笑眸。葉落地成錦繡織毯，走在其上，沙沙作響，見證我們曾經到來。

即將褪去一身葉準備過冬的樹們，心無旁騖地，化成一抹抹的燦爛，團團將我們圍住。即使我們只是過客。

也許我們並非相遇在彼此最美麗的年華，卻一起邂逅此城勝景。滿城恣意奔放的燦爛， 隨風飛舞，輕飄過身旁，悄悄地，將我們的相遇染成一段淡香微甜的美好。

2013 年 11 月於京都永觀堂

November 2013, Eikando, Kyoto

離哲學之道不遠的永觀堂，建於西元九世紀的平安時代，與東福寺並稱京都兩大楓葉名所。據說寺內植有三千株楓樹，自古有『秋は紅葉のもみじの永觀堂 （一到秋天，就想到永觀堂的紅葉）』美譽。其內奉有絕世僅有的回首阿彌陀（見返り阿彌陀） ，是尊巧妙地捕捉由靜到動，由動到靜瞬間的塑像。永觀堂山門不顯眼，庭園相較於京都其它的寺院，也顯得平淡。院後築於楓樹林間的木製迴廊，卻是京都市區內我極愛之處，總驚艷其毫不保留，自在閒適的美。

回首阿彌陀像 Amitabha looking back

Photo source: Alicia's blog

永觀堂因離哲學之道近的關係，春季遊人不少，秋季賞夜楓者尤多。永觀堂也是清末國學大師王國維客居京都時至愛之處。 返國後，因為念念不忘永觀堂之美，索性將自己的別號『人間』改為『觀堂』 和『永觀』；室名由『學學山海居』更為『永觀堂』。文集則起名為『觀堂集林』。真是永觀堂最忠實粉絲之一。他並為永觀堂的紅葉作詩：『滿山填谷漲紅霞，點綴殘秋意太奢。若問蓬萊好風景，為言楓葉勝櫻花。』

無論何時來到永觀堂，坐在緣側，漫步後院迴廊，看穿過碧層層楓葉的陽光，或黃橘紅交錯相疊，因光線而透亮的楓葉時，平靜和美麗卻是心中唯一的感受。千百年來，京都大大小小的角落，為了保持這種平靜美麗，持續地努力著。並將這份閒適美好的能量，渲染給這城市的過客。面對這片楓樹林，這份千錘百鍊的美麗，只願歲月靜好的心意，悄然在我心中升起。

永觀堂後院迴廊俯視近處，同為隱身楓林間得步道。

Overlooking the pathway among maple trees from the wooden corridor in the back of Eikando.

There are about 3,000 maple trees in Eikando, which always bring us one of the most gorgeous autumn scenes. 永觀堂內，三千株楓樹一起打造的紅葉美景

via only_1 の日記

Dainty autumn foliage at Eikando. 永觀堂內纖細的紅葉。

via only_1 の日記

Eikando is just off the Philosopher's pathway, about a 3-minute walk. It is one of the best places to see autumn foliage in Kyoto.  It thus is always packed with visitors in autumn, particularly at night. Eikando also attracts a lot of visitors in the spring, for it is close to the highly popular Philosopher's pathway.  However, it is quiet and peaceful in the summer, and is my favourite summer escape in Kyoto city.  Summer is Eikando's low season (and so is the neighbourhood).  Walking along the wooden corridor in its back garden is a fantastic way to capture some serene and zen experience.  

It seems like a serene spot is everywhere in Kyoto.  I guess that's because Kyoto has persistently and continuously cultivated itself as a graceful place for hundreds of years.  It always kindly embraces residents as well as visitors with its unique virtues. Walking among the maple trees in the back garden  of Eikando,   one can't help to wish everyday could be tranquil and peaceful.