京都則不然，市內只有兩線成十字狀的地鐵。尋訪散落市內和郊區的名所，四通八達的公車路線，反而方便。京都的公車站牌還有車班即時到站資訊系統呢。但搭公車需事先規劃路線，找站牌，對初來乍到的觀光客，有時也不那麼容易。而除了地鐵和公車外，京都市內還有個介於這兩者間的街車系統。那是建於明治43 年 (西元 1910 年)，連接市區和西山的嵐山電車（嵐電）。
嵐電在京都市區這頭的起點在四条大宮，每十分鐘發一班車。從這兒出發，可以到達西部嵐山嵯峨野及京都西北邊著名的景點 。百年來，嵐電運輸技術與時俱進，涵蓋路線持續擴增，但全線仍保持在地面行駛。與總是在地下快跑的地鐵相比，嵐電明亮又瀟灑；與公車相比，除了免去因路況造成的顛簸，嵐電似乎更適合分不清東西南北的新旅人。也許因為這些個人偏見，我對嵐電的第一印象大好，往西區去時總把嵐電當做首選交通工具。穿梭在房舍間，行駛過林間的嵐電也讓我想起搭乘波士頓市市内的綠線 T (Green Line) ，還有歐洲諸多城市的輕軌電車的悠閒感。
Randen is an intra-city public transportation system of Kyoto. The Randen tram / streetcar runs through small business districts and suburbs, which reminds me a lot about Boston's Green-line T and tram systems in many European cities. Began to operate in 1910, the Randen railway system connects downtown Kyoto with the city's western and northwestern neighbourhood, making visiting Arashiyama and historic sight-seeing spots, such as Kinkakuji, easily.
The Randen tram approaching Arashiyama station.
Photo credit: myself
View from inside the Randen tram
Photo credit: myself
Hopping on the Randen tram in downtown Kyoto at the Shijo-Omiya station, passengers are soon sent to infamous Japanese cultural heritages / relics to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the 9th century or a much earlier era, after passing a long gorgeous sakura boulevard.
The sakura boulevard of the Randen railway
Photo credit: Matt
In comparison to people that want everything be made available fast, quick and easy, keeping the hundred-year-old Randen system reflects Kyoto people's determination to conserve old things in the modern era. The Randen streetcar does not run very fast, perhaps an aspect that only people live in historical cities can enjoy and appreciate.
嵐電是能讓搭乘者有舒服感的交通工具，但是它速度不是特快，每班次至多有兩個車廂。相較於許多事事求新求快的現代人，百年街車系統似乎也象徵古都人，千錘百鍊而出的慢活精神。那是已經深入骨髓，與生長在這裡的人融為一體的精神，是不論遇到什麼事，都能不疾不徐從容應對的餘裕。
難怪京都人總可以帶著一抹婉約淺笑、不慍不火地說，『天皇，其實只是去東京一下子而已』！
I
No comments:
Post a Comment